Rear Axle

Axle Shaft, Bearing and Seal

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

Ford 8.8 Inch And 9.75 Inch Ring Gear

Remove the side gear pinion shaft lockbolt and ...
... the side gear pinion shaft
Push the axles in so that the C-clip groove is accessible, and remove the C-clips from the axle shafts
Grasp the axle and slide it out of the tube
  1. Raise and safely support the vehicle on jackstands.
  2. Remove the wheels from the brake drums.
  3. Place a drain pan under the housing and drain the lubricant by loosening the housing cover.
  4. Remove the locks securing the brake drums to the axle shaft flanges and remove the drums.
  5. Remove the housing cover and gasket.
  6. Remove the side gear pinion shaft lockbolt and the side gear pinion shaft.
  7. Push the axle shafts inward and remove the C-locks from the inner end of the axle shafts. Temporarily replace the shaft and lockbolt to retain the differential gears in position.
  8. Remove the axle shafts with a slide hammer. Be sure the seal is not damaged by the splines on the axle shaft.
  9. Remove the bearing and oil seal from the housing. Both the seal and bearing can be removed with a slide hammer
  10. Two types of bearings are used on some axles, one requiring a press fit and the other a loose fit. A loose fitting bearing does not necessarily indicate excessive wear.
  11. Inspect the axle shaft housing and axle shafts for burrs or other irregularities. Replace any work or damaged parts. A light yellow color on the bearing journal of the axle shaft is normal, and does not require replacement of the axle shaft. Slight pitting and wear is also normal.
  12. Lightly coat the wheel bearing rollers with axle lubricant. Install the bearings in the axle housing until the bearing seats firmly against the shoulder.
  13. Wipe all lubricant from the oil seal bore, before installing the seal.
  14. Inspect the original seals for wear. If necessary, these may be replaced with new seals, which are prepacked with lubricant and do not require soaking.

To install:

  1. Install the oil seal.
  2. Remove the lockbolt and pinion shaft. Carefully slide the axle shafts into place. Be careful that you do not damage the seal with the splined end of the axle shaft. Engage the splined end of the shaft with the differential side gears.
  3. Install the axle shaft C-locks on the inner end of the axle shafts and seat the C-locks in the counterbore of the differential side gears.
  4. Rotate the differential pinion gears until the differential pinion shaft can be installed. Install the differential pinion shaft lockbolt. Tighten to 15-22 ft. lbs. (20-30 Nm).
  5. Install the brake drum on the axle shaft flange.
  6. Install the wheel and tire on the brake drum and tighten the attaching nuts.
  7. Clean the gasket surface of the rear housing and install a new cover gasket and the housing cover. Some covers do not use a gasket. On these models, apply a bead of silicone sealer on the gasket surface. The bead should run inside of the bolt holes.
  8. Raise the rear axle so that it is in the running position. Add the amount of specified lubricant to bring the lubricant level to 1/2 in. (12.7mm) below the filler hole.

Ford 10.25 Inch and 10.50 Inch Ring Gear

Rear axle shaft retaining bolts on the Ford 10.25 inch full-floating rear axle

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Using a hub wrench to remove the hub nuts on the 10.25 inch full-floating axle

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Loosening the hub on the 10.25 inch full-floating axle

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Hub nut removal on the 10.25 inch full-floating axle

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Hub nuts for the 10.25 inch full-floating axle

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Removing the axle shaft from the Ford 10.25 inch full-floating rear axle

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Installing the step plate adapter tool on the 10.25 inch full-floating axle

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Installing the hub nuts for the 10.25 inch full-floating axle

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Unitized rear wheel seals on the 10.25 inch full-floating axle

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The wheel bearings on the full floating rear axle are packed with wheel bearing grease. Axle lubricant can also flow into the wheel hubs and bearings, however, wheel bearing grease is the primary lubricant. The wheel bearing grease provides lubrication until the axle lubricant reaches the bearings during normal operation.

  1. Set the parking brake and loosen the axle shaft bolts.
  2. Raise the rear wheels off the floor and place jackstands under the rear axle housing so that the axle is parallel with the floor.
  3. Remove the wheels.
  4. Remove the brake drums.
  5. Remove the axle shaft bolts.
  6. Remove the axle shaft and discard the gaskets.
  7. With the axle shaft removed, remove the gasket from the axle shaft flange studs.
  8. Install Hub Wrench T85T-4252-AH, or equivalent, so that the drive tangs on the tool engage the slots in the hub nut.

The hub nuts are right-hand thread on the right hub and left-hand thread on the left hub. The hub nuts should be stamped RH and LH. Never use power or impact tools on these nuts! The nuts will ratchet during removal.

  1. Remove the hub nut.
  2. Install step plate adapter tool D80L-630-7, or equivalent, in the hub.
  3. Install puller D80L-1002-L, or equivalent and loosen the hub to the point of removal. Remove the puller and step plate.
  4. Remove the hub, taking care to catch the outer bearing as the hub comes off.
  5. Install the hub in a soft-jawed vise and pry out the hub seal.
  6. Lift out the inner bearing.
  7. Drive out the inner and outer bearing races with a drift.
  8. Wash all the old grease or axle lubricant out of the wheel hub, using a suitable solvent.
  9. Wash the bearing races and rollers and inspect them for pitting, galling, and uneven wear patterns. Inspect the roller for end wear. Replace any bearing and race that appears in any way damaged. Always replace the bearings and races as a set.
  10. Coat the race bores with a light coat of clean, waterproof wheel bearing grease and drive the races squarely into the bores until they are fully seated. A good indication that the race is seated is when you notice the grease from the bore squashing out under the race when it contact the shoulder. Another indication is a definite change in the metallic tone when you seat the race. Just be very careful to avoid damaging the bearing surface of the race!
  11. Pack each bearing cone and roller with a bearing packer or in the manner outlined in Section 1 for the front wheel bearings on 2WD Drive trucks.

To install:

  1. Place the inner bearing cone and roller assembly in the wheel hub.

When installing the new seal, the words OIL SIDE must go inwards towards the bearing!

  1. Place the seal squarely in the hub and drive it into place. The best tool for the job is a seal driver such as T85T-1175-AH, which will stop when the seal is at the proper depth.

If the seal is misaligned or damaged during installation, a new seal must be installed.

  1. Clean the spindle thoroughly. If the spindle is excessively pitted, damaged or has a predominately bluish tint (from overheating), it must be replaced.
  2. Coat the spindle with 80W/90 oil.
  3. Pack the hub with clean, waterproof wheel bearing grease.
  4. Pack the outer bearing with clean, waterproof wheel bearing grease in the same manner as you packed the inner bearing.
  5. Place the outer bearing in the hub and install the hub and bearing together on the spindle.
  6. Install the hub nut on the spindle. Make sure that the nut tab is located in the key-way prior to thread engagement. Turn the hub nut onto the threads as far as you can by hand, noting the thread direction.
  7. Install the hub wrench tool and tighten the nut to 55-65 ft. lbs. (75-88 Nm). Rotate the hub occasionally during nut tightening.
  8. Ratchet the nut back 5 teeth. Make sure that you hear 5 clicks!
  9. Inspect the axle shaft O-ring seal and replace it if it looks at all bad.
  10. Install the axle shaft.
  11. Coat the axle shaft bolt threads with waterproof seal and install them by hand until they seat. Do not tighten them with a wrench at this time!
  12. Check the diameter across the center of the brake shoes. Check the diameter of the brake drum. Adjust the brake shoes so that their diameter is 0.030 in. (0.76mm) less than the drum diameter.
  13. Install the brake drum
  14. Install the wheel.
  15. Loosen the differential filler plug. If lubricant starts to run out, retighten the plug. If not, remove the plug and fill the housing with 80W/90 gear oil.
  16. Lower the truck to the floor.
  17. Tighten the wheel lugs to 140 ft. lbs. (190 Nm).
  18. Now tighten the axle shaft bolts. Tighten them to 60-80 ft. lbs. (81-108 Nm).

Dana Axles

Rear wheel hub on the Dana full-floating axle used on the F-Super Duty

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Installing the rear wheel bearings and seal

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Heavy duty wheel dolly

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Tightening the hub nut

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CAUTION
New Dual Rear Wheel models have flat-faced lug nut replacing the old cone-shaped lug nuts. NEVER replace these new nuts with the older design! Never replace the newer designed wheels with older design wheels! The newer wheels have lug holes with special shoulders to accommodate the newly designed lug nuts.

The wheel bearings on full floating rear axles are packed with wheel bearing grease. Axle lubricant can also flow into the wheel hubs and bearings, however, wheel bearing grease is the primary lubricant. The wheel bearing grease provides lubrication until the axle lubricant reaches the bearings during normal operation.

  1. Set the parking brake and loosen, but do not remove, the axle shaft bolts.
  2. Raise the rear wheels off the floor and place jackstands under the rear axle housing so that the axle is parallel with the floor. The axle shafts must turn freely, so release the parking brake.
  3. Remove the axle shaft bolts and lockwashers. They should not be re-used.
  4. Place a heavy duty wheel dolly under the wheels and raise them so that all weight is off the wheel bearings.
  5. Remove the axle shaft and gasket(s).
  6. Remove the brake caliper. See Section 9.
  7. Using a special hub nut wrench, remove the hub nut.

The hub nuts for both sides are right-hand thread and marked RH.

  1. Remove the outer bearing cone and pull the wheel straight off the axle.
  2. With a piece of hardwood or a brass drift which will just clear the outer bearing cup, drive the inner bearing cone and inner seal out of the wheel hub.

To install:

  1. Wash all the old grease or axle lubricant out of the wheel hub, using a suitable solvent.
  2. Wash the bearing cups and rollers and inspect them for pitting, galling, and uneven wear patterns. Inspect the roller for end wear.
  3. If the bearing cups are to be replaced, drive them out with a brass drift. Install the new cups with a block of wood and hammer or press them in.
  4. If the bearing cups are properly seated, a 0.0015 in. (0.038mm) feeler gauge will not fit between the cup and the wheel hub. The gauge should not fit beneath the cup. Check several places to make sure the cups are squarely seated.
  5. Pack each bearing cone and roller with a bearing packer or in the manner outlined for the front wheel bearings on 2WD trucks in Section 1. Use a multi-purpose wheel bearing grease.
  6. Place the inner bearing cone and roller assembly in the wheel hub. Install a new inner seal in the hub with a seal installation tool.
  7. Wrap the threads of the spindle with tape and carefully slide the hub straight on the spindle. Take care to avoid damaging the seal! Remove the tape.
  8. Install the outer bearing. Start the hub nut, making sure that the hub tab is engaged with the key-way prior to threading.
  9. Tighten the nut to 65-75 ft. lbs. (88-102 Nm) while rotating the wheel.

The hub will ratchet at torque is applied. This ratcheting can be avoided by using Ford tool No. T88T-4252-A. Avoiding ratcheting will give more even bearing preloads.

  1. Back off (loosen) the adjusting nut 90° (1/4 turn). Then, tighten it to 15-20 ft. lbs. (20-27 Nm).
  2. Using a dial indicator, check end-play of the hub. No end-play is permitted.
  3. Clean the hub bolt holes thoroughly. Replace the hub if any cracks are found around the holes or if the threads in the holes are in any way damaged.
  4. Install the axle shaft, new flange gasket, lock washers and new shaft retaining bolts. Coat the bolt threads with thread adhesive. Tighten them snugly, but not completely.
  5. Install the caliper.
  6. Install the wheels.
  7. Lower the truck to the groups.
  8. Tighten the wheel lug nuts.
  9. Tighten the axle shaft bolts to 40-55 ft. lbs. (54-75 Nm).

Pinion Seal

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

Ford 8.8 Inch and 9.75 Inch Ring Gear

Measuring pinion bearing preload

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Pinion seal installation for the Ford 8.8 inch rear axle

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A torque wrench capable of at least 225 ft. lbs. (305 Nm) is required for pinion seal installation.

  1. Raise and safely support the vehicle with jackstands under the frame rails. Allow the axle to drop to rebound position for working clearance.
  2. Remove the rear wheels and brake drums. No drag must be present on the axle.
  3. Mark the companion flanges and U-joints for correct reinstallation position.
  4. Remove the driveshaft.
  5. Using an inch pound torque wrench and socket on the pinion yoke nut measure the amount of torque needed to maintain differential rotation through several clockwise revolutions. Record the measurement.
  6. Use a suitable tool to hold the companion flange. Remove the pinion nut.
  7. Place a drain pan under the differential, clean the area around the seal, and mark the yoke-to-pinion relation.
  8. Use a 2-jawed puller to remove the pinion.
  9. Remove the seal with a small prybar.

To install:

  1. Thoroughly clean the oil seal bore.

If you are not absolutely certain of the proper seal installation depth, the proper seal driver must be used. If the seal is misaligned or damaged during installation, it must be removed and a new seal installed.

  1. Drive the new seal into place with a seal driver such as T83T-4676-A. Coat the seal lip with clean, waterproof wheel bearing grease.
  2. Coat the splines with a small amount of wheel bearing grease and install the yoke, aligning the matchmarks. Never hammer the yoke onto the pinion!
  3. Install a NEW nut on the pinion.
  4. Hold the yoke with a holding tool. Tighten the pinion nut to at least 160 ft. lbs. (217 Nm), taking frequent turning torque readings until the original preload reading is attained. If the original preload reading, that you noted before disassembly, is lower than the specified reading of 8-14 inch lbs. (0.9-1.6 Nm) for used bearings; 16-29 inch lbs. (1.8-3,3 Nm) for new bearings, keep tightening the pinion nut until the specified reading is reached. If the original preload reading is higher than the specified values, tighten the nut just until the original reading is reached.
  5. Install the driveshaft using the matchmarks. Tighten the nuts to 15 ft. lbs. (20 Nm).
WARNING
Under no circumstances should the nut be backed off to reduce the preload reading! If the preload is exceeded, the yoke and bearing must be removed and a new collapsible spacer must be installed. The entire process of preload adjustment must be repeated.

Ford 10.25 Inch and 10.50 Inch Ring Gear

A torque wrench capable of at least 225 ft. lbs. (305 Nm) is required for pinion seal installation.

  1. Raise and safely support the vehicle with jackstands under the frame rails. Allow the axle to drop to the rebound position for working clearance.
  2. Remove the rear wheels and brake drums. No drag must be present on the axle.
  3. Mark the companion flanges and U-joints for correct reinstallation position.
  4. Remove the driveshaft.
  5. Using an inch pound torque wrench and socket on the pinion yoke nut measure the amount of torque needed to maintain differential rotation through several clockwise revolutions. Record the measurement.
  6. Use a suitable tool to hold the companion flange. Remove the pinion nut.
  7. Place a drain pan under the differential, clean the area around the seal, and mark the yoke-to-pinion relation.
  8. Use a 2-jawed puller to remove the pinion.
  9. Remove the seal with a small prybar.

To install:

  1. Thoroughly clean the oil seal bore.

If you are not absolutely certain of the proper seal installation depth, the proper seal driver must be used. If the seal is misaligned or damaged during installation, it must be removed and a new seal installed.

  1. Drive the new seal into place with a seal driver such as T83T-4676-A. Coat the seal lip with clean, waterproof wheel bearing grease.
  2. Coat the splines with a small amount of wheel bearing grease and install the yoke, aligning the matchmarks. Never hammer the yoke onto the pinion!
  3. Install a NEW nut on the pinion.
  4. Hold the yoke with a holding tool. Tighten the pinion nut to at least 160 ft. lbs. (217 Nm), taking frequent turning torque readings until the original preload reading is attained. If the original preload reading, that you noted before disassembly, is lower than the specified reading of 8-14 inch lbs. (0.9-1.6 Nm) for used bearings; 16-29 inch lbs. (1.8-3.3 Nm) for new bearings, keep tightening the pinion nut until the specified reading is reached. If the original preload reading is higher than the specified values, tighten the nut just until the original reading is reached.
WARNING
Under no circumstances should the nut be backed off to reduce the preload reading! If the preload is exceeded, the yoke and bearing must be removed and a new collapsible spacer must be installed. The entire process of preload adjustment must be repeated.
  1. Install the driveshaft using the matchmarks.

Dana Axles

A torque wrench capable of at least 500 ft. lbs. (678 Nm) is required for pinion seal installation.

  1. Raise and safely support the vehicle with jackstands under the frame rails. Allow the axle to drop to the rebound position for working clearance.
  2. Remove the rear wheels and brake drums. No drag must be present on the axle.
  3. Mark the companion flanges and U-joints for correct reinstallation position.
  4. Remove the driveshaft.
  5. Use a suitable tool to hold the companion flange. Remove the pinion nut.
  6. Place a drain pan under the differential, clean the area around the seal, and mark the yoke-to-pinion relation.
  7. Use a 2-jawed puller to remove the pinion.
  8. Remove the seal with a small prybar.

To install:

  1. Thoroughly clean the oil seal bore.

If you are not absolutely certain of the proper seal installation depth, the proper seal driver must be used. If the seal is misaligned or damaged during installation, it must be removed and a new seal installed.

  1. Coat the new oil seal with wheel bearing grease. Install the seal using oil seal driver T56T-4676-B. After the seal is installed, make sure that the seal garter spring has not become dislodged. If it has, remove and replace the seal.
  2. Install the yoke, using flange replacer tool D81T-4858-A if necessary to draw the yoke into place.
  3. Install a new pinion nut and washer. Tighten the nut to 440-500 ft. lbs. (597-678 Nm).
  4. Connect the driveshaft.

Axle Housing Assembly

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

Ford 8.8 Inch and 9.75 Inch Ring Gear

EXPEDITION AND NAVIGATOR WITH AIR SUSPENSION
Detach the connector for the speed sensor

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On both sides of the vehicle, disconnect the parking brake cable and conduit from the rear wheel disc brake adapter

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On both sides of the vehicle, remove the rear disc brake caliper and position it out of the way

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Remove the rear stabilizer bar retaining bolts

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Loosen the rear stabilizer bar links and bushings

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Disconnect the air suspension height sensor

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Remove the rear axle tracking bar assembly retaining bolt and position the rear axle tracking bar out of the way

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Remove the jounce bumpers

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Remove the rear suspension upper front arm and bushing retaining bolts

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Remove the rear suspension arms retaining bolts, and position the rear suspension arms and bushings out of the way

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Remove the lower shock absorber retaining bolts

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Remove the rear axle housing vent hose

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WARNING
Do not remove an air spring under any circumstances when there is pressure in the air spring. Do not remove any components supporting an air spring without either exhausting the air or providing support for the air spring to prevent vehicle damage or personal injury.
WARNING
The electrical power to the air suspension system must be shut off prior to hoisting, jacking or towing an air suspension vehicle. This can be accomplished by turning off the air suspension switch located in the RH kick panel area. Failure to do so can result in unexpected inflation or deflation of the air springs, which can result in shifting of the vehicle during these operations.
  1. Deactivate the air suspension.
  2. Raise and support the vehicle.
  3. Remove the rear wheel and tire assembly.
  4. Detach the connector for the speed sensor.
  5. Mark the driveshaft flange and pinion flange for correct alignment during installation.
  6. Remove the four driveshaft bolts and disconnect the driveshaft. Support the driveshaft using a piece of mechanic's wire or other suitable device.
  7. On both sides of the vehicle, disconnect the parking brake cable and conduit from the rear wheel disc brake adapter.
  8. On both sides of the vehicle, remove the rear disc brake caliper and position it out of the way. Remove the brake discs (rotors).
  9. Remove the rear stabilizer bar retaining bolts.
  10. Loosen the rear stabilizer bar links and bushings.
  11. Disconnect the air suspension height sensor.
WARNING
Use extra straps to secure the rear axle to the jack.
  1. Install a suitable hydraulic jack under the rear axle housing.
  2. Remove the rear axle tracking bar assembly retaining bolt and position the rear axle tracking bar out of the way.
  3. Remove the jounce bumpers.
  4. Remove the rear suspension upper front arm and bushing retaining bolts.
  5. Remove the rear suspension arms retaining bolts and position the rear suspension arms and bushings out of the way.
  6. Remove the lower shock absorber retaining bolts.
  7. Remove the rear axle housing vent hose.
  8. Lower the rear axle on the jack until it is clear of the vehicle.

To install:

CAUTION
Use extra straps to secure the rear axle to the jack.
  1. Raise the rear axle into place using a suitable hydraulic jack.
  2. Position the rear suspension upper front arms and bushings and install the retaining bolts.
  3. Position the rear suspension arms and bushings and install the retaining bolts.
  4. Raise the rear axle with the jack until the rear suspension arm and bushings are parallel to the ground and install the rear stabilizer bar retaining bolts.
  5. Tighten the rear suspension arms and bushings.
  6. Tighten the rear suspension upper front arms and bushing retaining bolts.
  7. Position the rear axle tracking bars in the bracket and install the retaining bolts.
  8. Connect the rear axle housing vent hose.
  9. Install and tighten the rear stabilizer bar retaining bolts.
  10. Tighten the rear stabilizer bar links and bushings.
  11. Tighten the shock absorber retaining bolts.
  12. Remove the jack.
  13. Install the driveshaft and tighten the retaining capscrews.
  14. Lower the vehicle partially.
  15. Install the jounce bumper retaining bolts.
  16. Install the parking brake rear cables and conduit.
  17. Install the brake discs (rotors).
  18. Install the rear disc brake calipers.
  19. Install the wheels and tires.
  20. Connect the air suspension height sensor.
  21. Attach the electrical connector at the anti-lock speed sensor.
  22. Lower the vehicle.
  23. Turn on the air suspension control switch.
F-150, F-250, EXPEDITION AND NAVIGATOR WITHOUT AIR SUSPENSION
Detach the connector for the speed sensor

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On both sides of the vehicle, disconnect the parking brake cable and conduit from the rear wheel disc brake adapter

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On both sides of the vehicle, remove the rear disc brake caliper and position it out of the way

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Remove the rear stabilizer bar retaining bolts

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Loosen the rear stabilizer bar links and bushings

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Remove the rear axle tracking bar assembly retaining bolt and position the rear axle tracking bar out of the way

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Remove the jounce bumpers

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Remove the rear suspension upper front arm and bushing retaining bolts

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Remove the rear suspension arms retaining bolts and position the rear suspension arms and bushings out of the way

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Remove the lower shock absorber retaining bolts

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Remove the rear axle housing vent hose

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Remove both coil springs

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  1. Raise and support the vehicle.
  2. Remove the rear wheel and tire assembly.
  3. Mark the driveshaft flange and pinion flange for correct alignment during installation.
  4. Remove the four driveshaft bolts and disconnect the driveshaft and wire it out of the way.
  5. Wire the driveshaft aside.
  6. Disconnect the electrical connector at the anti-lock speed sensor.
  7. Disconnect the parking brake cable and conduit from the rear wheel disc brake adapter.
  8. Remove the rear disc brake caliper and position it out of the way.
  9. Remove the brake disc.
  10. Remove the rear stabilizer bar retaining bolts.
  11. Loosen the rear stabilizer bar links and bushings.
  12. Install jack stands beneath the rear axle and lower the vehicle onto the jack stands.
  13. Place a third jack stand under the front of the rear axle housing.
  14. Remove the rear axle tracking bar assembly retaining bolts and position the rear axle tracking bars out of the way.
  15. Remove the jounce bumpers.
  16. Remove the rear suspension upper front arm and bushing retaining bolts.
  17. Remove the rear suspension arm and bushing retaining bolt and position the rear suspension arm and bushing out of the way.
  18. Remove the lower shock absorber retaining bolts.
  19. Remove the rear axle housing vent hose.
CAUTION
This step should be performed with an assistant to keep the axle clear of obstructions while the vehicle is being raised.
  1. Remove the rear axle from the out from under the vehicle.
  2. Remove both rear springs.

To install:

CAUTION
The following step should be performed with the aid of an assistant.
  1. Position the rear axle on jack stands under the vehicle.
  2. Install both rear springs.
  3. Position the rear disc brake calipers and brake lines before installing the retaining bolts and nuts.
  4. Position the rear suspension upper front arms and bushings and install the retaining bolts and nuts.
  5. Position the rear suspension arms and bushings and install the retaining bolts.
  6. Install the lower shock absorber retaining bolts.
  7. This step should be done with the rear axle resting on jack stands to keep the vehicle as close to ride height as possible.
  8. Tighten the rear suspension arm and bushing.
  9. Tighten the rear suspension upper front arm and bushing retaining bolts.
  10. Raise the vehicle and position the rear axle tracking bar in the bracket and install the retaining bolts.
  11. Connect the rear axle housing vent hose.
  12. Install and tighten the rear stabilizer bar retaining bolts on both sides.
  13. Tighten the rear stabilizer bar links and bushings securely on both sides.
  14. Tighten the lower shock absorber retaining bolts.
  15. Install the driveshaft and tighten the retaining capscrews.
  16. Lower the vehicle partially.
  17. Install the jounce bumper retaining bolts.
  18. Install the parking brake rear cable and conduit.
  19. Install the brake discs (rotors).
  20. Install the rear disc brake calipers.
  21. Install the wheels and tires.
  22. Attach the electrical connector at the anti-lock speed sensor.
  23. Lower the vehicle.

Ford 10.25 Inch and 10.50 Inch Ring Gear With Full Floating Integral Carrier

  1. Raise and support the rear end on jackstands under the rear frame members, and support the housing with a floor jack.
  2. Matchmark and disconnect the driveshaft at the axle.
  3. Remove the wheels and brake drums.
  4. Disengage the brake line from the clips that retain the line to the housing.
  5. Disconnect the vent tube from the housing.
  6. Remove the hubs.
  7. Remove the brake backing plate from the housing, and support them with wire. Do not disconnect the brake line.
  8. Disconnect each rear shock absorber from the mounting bracket stud on the housing.
  9. Lower the axle slightly to reduce some of the spring tension. At each rear spring, remove the spring clip (U-bolt) nuts, spring clips, and spring seat caps.
  10. Remove the housing from under the vehicle.

To install:

  1. Position the axle housing under the rear springs. Install the spring clips (U-bolts), spring seat clamps and nuts. Tighten the spring clamps evenly to 200 ft. lbs. (271 Nm).
  2. If a new axle housing is being installed, remove the bolts that attach the brake backing plate and bearing retaining from the old housing flanges. Position the bolts in the new housing flanges to hold the brake backing plates in position. Tighten the bolts.
  3. Connect the vent tube to the housing.
  4. Position the brake line to the housing, and secure it with the retaining clips.
  5. Raise the axle housing and springs enough to allow connecting the rear shock absorbers to the mounting bracket studs on the housing.
  6. Connect the driveshaft to the axle.
  7. Install the brake drums and wheels.

Dana Axles

  1. Loosen the rear axle shaft nuts.
  2. Raise and support the rear end on jackstands placed under the frame.
  3. Remove the rear wheels.
  4. Disconnect the shock absorbers from the rear axle.
  5. Disconnect the rear stabilizer bar.
  6. Disconnect the brake hose at the frame.
  7. Disconnect the parking brake cable at the equalizer and remove the cables from the support brackets.
  8. Matchmark the driveshaft-to-axle flange position.
  9. Disconnect the driveshaft from the rear axle and move it out of the way.
  10. Detach the speed sensor connector.
  11. Take up the weight of the axle with a floor jack.
  12. Remove the nuts from the spring U-bolts and remove the spring seat caps.
  13. Lower the axle and roll it from under the van.
  14. Installation is the reverse of removal. Tighten the spring U-bolt nuts to 160 ft. lbs. (217 Nm).
  15. Bleed the brake system.

Chilton® Automotive Information Systems. © 2004 Thomson Delmar Learning.